By Mario Goldstein

There are two passageways or channels within the gun. One is for airflow the other for material flow. The fluid needle takes the required paint from the reservoir. As you use the trigger to control the tapered needle, it will pull it from the tip allowing more material through. Simultaneously the trigger regulates the air to allow siphoning of the material from the cup, and atomizes the paint. It is through the fast moving area that a low-pressure area materializes and uses the ambient air pressure as its catalyst to push the material from the cup. Now you can see what it is so important to keep the vent tubes clear and clean.

Some interesting and very important questions are such as these

Qns 1: There are holes on both side of the air cap – what are they for?

These are like an air anvil and are called air horns. This is what allows you paint to flatten out so it makes a pattern. When the air meets the material it is in the impingement zone. As the air comes out of the horn the air hits directly in front of the air cap.

Qns 2: It is now becoming a regulation in many places to clean you gun in an enclosed gun washer. Whats the best way to use these?

If you have never used one before make sure you read and follow all instructions. They are designed to work in cycles of 60 seconds, so dont leave you gun in there beyond that time period. The cleaning action is like putting your gun fully immersed into lacquer thinner. Can you imagine the shape of your gun if you leave it in too long or too often?

Condensation will form in your gun if you do not change the solvent on a regular basis. This means acids start to form and this is certainly not good for your gun. If you are cleaning, a gravity gun is sure to plug up the air inlet before putting it into the washer. You dont want the solvent getting in here. Once done remove the gun and dry immediately with a cloth. If the packing starts to leak, you can change it.

Qns 3: My Spray gun produces a bad pattern:

Most likely, a rebuild kit wont correct the problem. Balance the air with the material.

Some other things to remember is you have to use more that one gun for refinish materials if you are in a compliant area. Temperature ranges are important for HVLP guns if its the larger ones; its not for the smaller ones. Lubricate you gun with a 4 oz. Mineral oil.

Remember to match the fluid nozzles with the type of material you using. Using multiple guns means you dont have to keep changing tips.

Keep your gun in top-notch shape by not dropping it or immersing it in thinned. Avoid harsh chemicals.

You must be in control of your spray gun at all times in the following areas

a) Judging the correct distance from the gun to the object

b) Proper trigger action

c) Control of the speed at which you are working

d) The angle at which you hold the gun. This requires techniques such as heeling toeing and fanning.

e) Constantly watch what you are doing so you apply evenly. Do a perpendicular pass at a constant even speed. If you go slowly, you will apply more paint whereas if you go fast you will decrease the amount.

f) Make sure you are wetting the surface

g) Each pass must overlap the previous application by about 50%

h) Make sure you dont double pass the same area

If you observe a problem let the paint flash and fix the problem on the second pass. There will be some flow after application but this will depend on the amount of reducer and hardener you have used. Once the paint catalyzes though whatever is showing is what will remain until you correct it.

Remember to take your time follow all the steps and you will master any weaknesses you have with your spray painting in no time with practice.

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